Ladders
Drill, Hammer
Leveler
Tape Measure
Drywall lift or forklift for 2-person install
IF INSTALLING WITH A LIFT
Steps: 1.Unpack contents and lay out near where install will be in garage. Be careful not to scratch or dent any of the material. Also check the material and make sure nothing got damaged during shipping. If something does look damaged call/email TMAX and report it right away.
Look at your opening where you are going to install the door and make sure everything is flush. Check the 2x10 trim framing out the opening is flush with your drywall on the top and on the sides of the opening. If it isn’t flush you will need to add wood or aluminum shims behind the rails so everything is flush when installed. If you don’t do this you could have rubbing on the outside of your door after a while. The door rubs on the exposed trim when going up and down so this is a very important step prior to installation. If you have questions, please call in and we will advise.
Uneven concrete/flooring- Look at the concrete and see if there is a cutout for water drainage. If there is you will need to cut the concrete so your rails can slide all the way down to be even with the concrete in the middle of your door. Your Tmax door will only going go down to the bottom of the rails. If you want it to go down further to create a better seal you might need to chip/cut away concrete the size of the rail (3.75’’x 2’’). If your concrete is even you can skip this step.
Measure height on both sides where your rails will be installed. Measure from the ground to
the beginning of the opening up top. Generally, that should be where the trim is that trims out the opening. If your measurement is different, you have a sloped floor. The rails come precut to the same measurement so if you install them on a sloped floor the box will be uneven.
This can cause the door to make popping noises and be louder in general than a level box that is installed correctly. If you have a slope that is greater than .25’’ you will need to cut the difference of the rail that will be installed on the side with the greater height. (Example) If you measurements are 96’’ on R side and 96.75’’ on L side you would need to cut 3/4’’ off the rail that is installed on the L side of the door. This will make sure your box is level on install.
Installing rails- Once you have your rails cut (if needed) it is time to install the rails. Before you do this, look at the top of the rail and see the area that the leg (on the sidecap) will sit in when they both are installed. Measure the outside of the leg on right side of box to outside of leg on left side of box. That measurement will be used to install your rails that distance apart so the legs can be placed in rails once they are installed. Once you have that measurement go up the frame and mark that on wall so you know where to place the outside of your rails. Go ahead and screw in your rails. Start by installing only two screws in each rail. One screw towards top and one towards bottom.
Putting box in rails- Lay Box close to opening and remove Universal (Manual Override on
Door) and then unscrew the screw on L and R side of the box and remove Box Cover. Set the Box cover to the side. Now that your rails are in place we will use the drywall lift or forklift to lift the housing and bundle up above the rails. The back of the housing will be the straight part
and that will go against the wall above the rails. Before you put the legs in the rails make sure your base slat (bottom part of door) that is hanging out of the bundle is directed to the center of the rails. You can now put those 2 legs inside the rails. You might need to take rubber mallet to top of side cap to get legs to slide all the way down. If you can’t get legs to slide down with mallet you will need to adjust your rails and scoot R or L towards opening or away from opening to allow leg in. Once you have them inside of the rails you can screw in the 2x2 angles on outside of the box. These angles are attached to sidecaps and are there to take pressure off the legs while you install. Once you have those screwed in you can go ahead and install the rest of the screws in the rail and attach the plug buttons when finished.
Attaching the wires - You will see a hole in the top of the box on both sides. Those holes are for the infrareds and the motor wire to come out of and attach to the Receiver. Go ahead and slide your wires up through the box and make sure they are pulled taught so there is no slack left in the box.
DC440 - Install your DC440 by hanging it next to your housing. The wires coming out will
attach to the wires coming out of the door. We have already wired it while testing and setting your limits in our shop. You will now reattach those wires. They are color coded. We recommend putting them in a Junction box so you don’t have exposed spliced wires. If you would rather attach the wires directly into the receiver and get rid of our pigtails you are more than welcome to do that as well. Just make sure when installing them you get a good connection and they are in there tightly. Once you have all wires attached and secured you will plug the DC440 in. Once the DC440 is plugged in you will hit stop and then down on the remote. The door should roll down and shut. We have set the limits at the measurements you sent us. If the door isn’t going all the way down we will have to do some limit adjusting. See bottom of page 4 limit adjusting
IF YOU ARE INSTALLING WITH NO LIFT
Steps 1-4 will be the same as above Step 5 Take front cover off of box. Put a blanket down and tape the back of the box at the bottom
from side to side where the channel curves to prevent scratching. Unroll the bundle by turning the manual override with the crank or remove the manual override and use a bit to slowly turn the axel and allow the bundle to roll down. The bit will be the same size as the back of the manual override you pulled out of the motor. Once you have door completely down and axel exposed undo the screws attaching the axel to the bundle. Move bundle away from housing.
The Rail with the longer cord for infrared sensor is the rail that goes the opposite side of motor. Run Infrared wire through the side cap and up through the hole in the top of the box which will later be connected into Receiver Box. Also Run Motor Wire Through top of box which will be connected to Receiver Box later. Run all Wires down to motor side of Box where they will event3ally all be hooked up to receiver.
With a recommended 2 to 3 people, walk the box with rails up the opening. Make sure rails and top of box are level and measure from outside of rail to outside of rail with tape to make sure top, middle, and bottom are same distance apart. Then drill screws into rail holes and into top part of the box and the bottom middle of box.
III
Now you need to set up the Receiver Box and Connect the Motor Wires and Infrared Wires into the Receiver Box. Run Wires through the Bottom holes of receiver box and connect Like pictured below. Once you have tightened down the wires into the Green Plugs make sure to plug the Green plugs securely back into slots. Run Black Receiver Antenna through the Bottom so can get good signal.
A. First Wires are the outlet plug which are already connected.
2nd Green slots with 6 holes are for the motor. Skip first 2 slots and insert Red wire into slot 3, Black wire into slot 4, White wire into slot 5, and Green wire into slot 6.
3rd Green slots with 7 slots are for infrared and jumper wire. Both Brown wires from infrareds go into Slot 1, Both Blue infrared Wires go into Slot 2, and White and Grey wires go into slot 3, Jumper wire is in slots 4 and 5. 6 and 7 are empty.
4th Green slots are 10 slots. Run black infrared Wire into Slot 1, Jumper wire is in slots 2 and 4. Last black wire is Antenna and should be ran out the bottom hole for good signal.
Once all wires are screwed down, push green plugs into proper holes and make sure they are snug and all wires are connected good.
Now you can plug in the receiver plug and it should be ready to go.
*Note that the top part of the receiver is already set up for both doors. No need to touch anything here. If you ever need to program a remote then this is where you can press and hold the 'Set' button then Red Light flashes, release buttom and hold the Up button on the Remote, you are wanting to program. Never press the Door Run Button or the dip switches...these are already set up for your door.
Check to make sure Bumper sensor and Infrared Sensors work and that the Up and Down limits are where you want them.(The door closes where you want it to and opens where you want it to stop) We have already set the limits, but could need a slight tweak. (Be very careful when doing this or call if have questions) Se next page efor instructions. The Up and Down limits are located on the motor and can be adjusted with the limit adjuster. Be careful when doing this because you don't want to make it go up or down too far.
Once you have all electric done the final step will be pushing down on the remote so we
can reattach your bundle. When you hit down you will hear the axel turning because when we detached the bundle manually the door was in the up position, so before we reattach, we have to make sure the door is all the way down before reattaching.
Reattaching the slats. You will take the bottom of the door and slide it over the axel into the rails. Make sure you don’t allow the slats to rub on the axel or it could dent or scratch the slats. You can put a blanket or some kind of cardboard or tape over the screw heads on the axel. Once you have the door all the way slid over the axel you will reattach the slat hangers to the axel in the same position/holes you removed them from. You are now finished and your door should roll up when pushing the up button. If your limits need adjusting please see below.
